Bikefan
Posts:0
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| 25 Apr 2009 10:18 PM |
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Hello.
The Heff has the most accurate answer, though very short controlled pumping would be more the norm than handle tapping. You must learn to "top bleed" the system, and not just bottom bleed.
In most cases, with a brake line change, there would be no need to open the bleed nipple(on the caliper) at all.
Ensure that the master cylinder orientation leaves the point of line attachment lower than the internal feed hole.
Removing the caliper is totally unnecessary, and merely an indication that other skills are lacking.
Total time required for the actual bleeding is usually about 30 secs on a system previously functioning correctly. |
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ratz
Stock Poster
Posts:53
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| 11 May 2009 8:36 PM |
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Just did a service on M/C an Caliper to remove a few years of snot from the Sporty brake system, after the clean, the hone and inspection/rebuild i ended up with the dreaded bleed, followed the wkshop rules from manual and basically u can stick it up yor blurta, got the 60ml syringe pumped it up from the bottom and 5mins later nice bled firm brakes minimum fuss, gotta luv that, cheers from that fuckin Rat NO FLAMERS |
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Ozroder
Performance Poster
Posts:1162
Melbourne
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| 12 May 2009 1:09 PM |
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OK OK My skills are lacking Bikefan....................do what RT does and start your motor and let the engine vibration do the "tapping" .....................you will definiteley be able to see and remove any trapped air from the hose......................
God I just love so called experts that are a legend in their own minds................yeah, I just love it when they say that if you have not performed the task in the way they like to do it then you have other skills lacking..................
I mean was this wanker born a bike mechanic? didnt he have to learn as well? I bet he has mirrors all over his garage with the words: "God I`m good!" |
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2010 - 103" ElectraGlide Ultra LTD
2008 - 103" Fatboy with the lot!
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roadtrain
The Heff
Motor Head
Posts:2200
Nth QLD
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| 12 May 2009 1:41 PM |
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OZY......leave me out of this one  I'm just a bush fixit guy who still uses a sharpened hacksaw blade to set sparkplugs.
RT |
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-CYCLE IMAGES-
http://lionelw.zenfolio.com/
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Hilly13
Posts:0
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| 13 May 2009 1:01 PM |
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Posted By roadtrain on 12 May 2009 1:41 PM
OZY......leave me out of this one I'm just a bush fixit guy who still uses a sharpened hacksaw blade to set sparkplugs.
RT
Nothin wrong with that brother...nothin at all |
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Ozroder
Performance Poster
Posts:1162
Melbourne
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Hilly13
Posts:0
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| 13 May 2009 1:22 PM |
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Oz Oz Oz, ya cant let em git under ya skin mate |
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roadtrain
The Heff
Motor Head
Posts:2200
Nth QLD
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| 13 May 2009 1:31 PM |
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Brother OZ........a procedure that was handed down from great grandfather RT and you will not find it in any manual.
Great grandfather RT also told me how to program the TTS with a sharpened hacksaw blade
RT |
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-CYCLE IMAGES-
http://lionelw.zenfolio.com/
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Ozroder
Performance Poster
Posts:1162
Melbourne
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| 13 May 2009 9:10 PM |
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Posted By roadtrain on 13 May 2009 1:31 PM
Brother OZ........a procedure that was handed down from great grandfather RT and you will not find it in any manual.
Great grandfather RT also told me how to program the TTS with a sharpened hacksaw blade
RT
You might not win any accolades with LV, Bikefan, etc. etc. but you`ll do me mate!..................................... Ozroder
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2010 - 103" ElectraGlide Ultra LTD
2008 - 103" Fatboy with the lot!
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roadtrain
The Heff
Motor Head
Posts:2200
Nth QLD
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| 14 May 2009 8:09 AM |
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Brother OZ, unlike some forum posters who can't backup their claims, I feel honoured to share some of RT's great grandfathers tuning tips. Although it's been a family secret for generations I feel obligated to finish what I have started. KC will also want to put this tech tips up as a sticky.
Tool required for gapping sparkplug.
Now OZ listen very carefully so as you won't be asking the usual stupid questions.
1~Place the sharpened hacksaw blade(fine) in the plug gap.
2~If the gap is too big a gentle tap with the gapping tool HD# big flogger is required to bring to HD specifications +/- 50tho.
3~ this is what the finished job should look like as you can see from the photo.
I would all so like too share his tuning tips with the TTS.
Unfortunately I don't have a working TTS to show you the results, so please forward yours. I am only to happy to share tech info even though I'm not the forum Tech Guru.
PS: Scotty, It's ok to pass this info on the USA forums if your ever stuck for a explanation on the topic.
RT |
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-CYCLE IMAGES-
http://lionelw.zenfolio.com/
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Hilly13
Posts:0
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| 14 May 2009 9:13 AM |
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| I reckon he's messed up his meds, one tablet every four hours RT, not four every hour :-) |
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Ozroder
Performance Poster
Posts:1162
Melbourne
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| 14 May 2009 12:22 PM |
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Great tech tip there RT, I can see how your hammer has given you years of abuse...........err use..........sorry...................
I can also see how that same hammer can be used with TTS to adjust the laptop top to remove the decel pop......................Scotty this could possibly lead to another sticky?
"God I`m good!"  
Ozroder
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2010 - 103" ElectraGlide Ultra LTD
2008 - 103" Fatboy with the lot!
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roadtrain
The Heff
Motor Head
Posts:2200
Nth QLD
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| 14 May 2009 12:45 PM |
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Ozy~~~~Just keep reading and learning and think outside the square, someday you'll be able to pass on tips just like me
RT |
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-CYCLE IMAGES-
http://lionelw.zenfolio.com/
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Peter
Motor Head
Posts:1581
Caboolture QLD
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| 26 Jul 2009 4:01 PM |
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| Will it only work with the HD BIG FLOGGER or is there an aftermarket tool I can purchase, always looking to save a penny. |
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09 fxsti - S.E.mufflers - Thundermax - K&N filter - and other stuff. #### THE FACE IS FAMILIAR I JUST CANT REMEMBER MY NAME #### |
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Ozbiker69
Stock Poster
Posts:101
Kallangur Queensland
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| 17 Sep 2009 6:56 PM |
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| Sometimes you just have to keep work on the bleeding process before it comes u[ trumps. I did mine a few months back when i replace the front line. It bleed up perfect first go. I also have a bleeder here that works on the compressor. They cost a few dollars, but do work well. |
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DNO
Stock Poster
Posts:10
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| 20 Sep 2009 12:13 PM |
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| Try leaving the brake system under pressure over night. This helps to force any air to the surface. Simply cable tie the lever to the bars and leave over night. Works 99% of the time. |
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HDisturbed
Stock Poster
Posts:55
Qld
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| 22 Sep 2009 10:09 PM |
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Just use a vacuum pump .... I've used most of the other methods successfully over the years but now I'm just too bloody lazy. The pump makes it fast & easy and is also good for fork oil changes as well as many other things mechanical |
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'97 Road King |
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steveoc
Stock Poster
Posts:6
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| 16 Mar 2010 7:42 PM |
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| Spot on , the backbleed is 100% the way to go . |
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jaxdwg
Stock Poster
Posts:42
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| 12 May 2010 1:04 AM |
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Posted By roadtrain on 09 Sep 2008 10:05 PM
KC it's a slow process to get the last of the air out. You need to remove the cover from the master cylinder so you can see the bubbles as you tap the lever with the plastic end from a screw driver. Slowley move the leaver in and out at the same time but only just enough for the bubbles to escape. You will learn how much movement to give the leaver as the air escapes, slowly tapping at the same time.
RT
I know this may sound dumb, but, I've talked with several folks who have done this and said it works great. Put a bungees around the brake lever and pull it tight so the brake is on pretty hard. Let the bike sit overnight then take off the bungee and try it in the morning. The extra pressure "squeezes" the air bubbles in the line and makes them smaller so they travel up the lines back into the master cylinder. This make take care of the extra distance you are needing to get the brakes to work, worth a try and it's free------jack
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kingchops
Forum Legend
Posts:3284
Adelaide, SA
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| 12 May 2010 8:54 PM |
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Posted By jaxdwg on 12 May 2010 1:04 AM
Posted By roadtrain on 09 Sep 2008 10:05 PM
KC it's a slow process to get the last of the air out. You need to remove the cover from the master cylinder so you can see the bubbles as you tap the lever with the plastic end from a screw driver. Slowley move the leaver in and out at the same time but only just enough for the bubbles to escape. You will learn how much movement to give the leaver as the air escapes, slowly tapping at the same time.
RT
I know this may sound dumb, but, I've talked with several folks who have done this and said it works great. Put a bungees around the brake lever and pull it tight so the brake is on pretty hard. Let the bike sit overnight then take off the bungee and try it in the morning. The extra pressure "squeezes" the air bubbles in the line and makes them smaller so they travel up the lines back into the master cylinder. This make take care of the extra distance you are needing to get the brakes to work, worth a try and it's free------jack
Yeah, did this method myself on the sporty and it worked great.
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2008 FXDB Vivid Black
V&H Big Radius |
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