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  • StreetBob Posts: 479
    Darling Ranges, Western Austra
    Performance Poster StreetBob
    27 Jan 2008 06:55 PM

    This is an excellent DIY guide taken from the Big Forum http://www.hdforums.com

    I hope it helps those that are considering doing this conversion themselves.

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    [script removed] Senior Rider

    Posts: 351
    Joined: 7/17/2006
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    I'm going to go through the installation of apehanger handlebars through a 24 year old kids eyes. First off, BUY THE DARN SERVICE MANUAL.  I referred to it many times throughout the install. I bought a set of cyclesmith 14.5" apes.  I bought +6 throttle/idle/brake/clutch stainless braided cables. I bought barnett throttle/idle/clutch cables and the brake cable from harley. Some will say that +6 is too long for 14.5s, but I wanted to be able to go to 16s if I felt like it later on.  The first and second pics show the bars after I installed the novello wire extension kit and throttle/idle cables.  Here goes nothing:

    Here are the new bars with the old bars in front:

    Here is a pic of the new bars by themselves.  They are 1-1/4" thick, 14.5" cyclesmith bars as I noted above.  They are 1" at the grips and risers, so they work with those stock components.  They are pre-drilled for internal wiring and are knurled where they bolt to riser.

    The first step is to pull the fuel pump fuse inside electrical caddy.  The service manual then states to start bike and let it run until it dies.  After it dies, run starter for 3 seconds to purge any fuel left in line.  Then you need to push up on coupling and pull down on fuel line.

    The next step is to pull the two bolts that hold the tank on.  One is up front near triple trees, and one is located under the seat.  After pulling fuel line from coupling you are able to slide it back a few inches.  Be careful though as clamps on either side of tank will scratch rocker box covers.  Next you will want to pull the rubber grommets out of either side of frame backbone.  I used a pair of pliers as they were in there tight.  They weren't damaged at all after doing so.  Next I pulled the plastic cover out from underneath backbone.  This allowed me to work the wire up and out the holes where grommets were.  Some people in the past tried to push the wire from underneath the battery.  This would have made it a nightmare.  After pulling plastic shield out, it was quite easy to manipulate the wire and work it out.  Here is the left side.

    Here is the right side.

    Here is the turn signal connector.  It is an amp double interlock style.  First you flip up the lip on the wire side of connector and then you need to push up on inside of connector while pulling wire out.  I used a pick tool to do so and it was quite easy.

    Next I disassembled the deutsch connectors.

    Here is the wedge sticking out.

    Here is the connector with wedge removed.  Notice the little tabs that you must pry down (sideways in this photo) to pull wire out.

    Here is the pick tool I used.  Made my life very very easy.

    Here are the wires removed from deutsch connector.

    Here is the connector and wedge assembly.

    Next, I removed the hand controls and grips from the old bars. I don't have any pictures of that part because its a matter of removing a couple screws.  On the right side you will have to remove the throttle/idle cables from inside the control.  You basically take out two screws and then you will have two halves.  Remove the ferrules from inside the assembly and you are done with that part.  Very easy.  I then brought the bars inside the house and began to run the wires.  I tried a 12 gauge wire or so at first, but it kept getting hung up inside the bars and absolutely would not go through.  I then went on a hunt in my room and found an old speaker wire.  I thought what the heck, I'll give it a shot.

    It worked very well and I was done in a matter of minutes.  After that I installed the novello wire extension kit.  This is a no splice, no cut, no solder kit.  As you have seen above, removing wires from connectors is very very very easy.  Please do it this way.  It would take longer to walk 100 feet to shed to get solder gun than to remove all 12 wires from the connectors.  Basically the novello kit is plugged into the end that you removed from connector.  Then you shrink tube the joint and then you plug other end of kit into connector.  Very easy to do. I highly recommend the kit.  JP is where I bought mine.  This photo is the ends of the novello kit.  The wires are color coded to match stock wiring.

    Next, I replaced the mesh cover on the wires and mounted the bars up to the riser.  I then hooked up throttle and idle cables to hand controls and then to the injection module.  At hand controls you just push the throttle and idle cables into their respective homes.  They are different size, so you can't screw it up.  Heres the injection module.

    Next, I adjusted the throttle and idle cables per service manual.  You basically turn bars to left, turn throttle wide open, turn throttle cable adjuster counterclockwise until throttle just touches cam stop at injection module.  Next, straighten out bars and adjust idle cable by turning it counterclockwise until the end of the cable just touches the spring (inside cable housing where blue arrow is pointing)

    Next I drained the transmission, removed side cover, removed snap ring, removed cable from inside cover and then removed the respective components.  First picture shows what you will see when you remove tranny side cover.  None of the components in first picture need messed with.

    Here is the clutch cable and the components that you must remove to get cable out.  Not as bad as it looks.


    And finally the last.

    JP sent me the wrong clutch cable so I'm going through the clutch cable install again.  The first time I had a rough time getting cable to thread into side cover.  It was somewhat fussy and would be much easier with two people.  Next you repeat previous steps in reverse.  Put components back into side cover, replace side cover, fill tranny and you are done.  Put cable back into hand control and bolt lever onto bars.

    Next was to remove the front brake line.  Be sure to cover all exposed surfaces in case of brake fluid dripping or spill.   First I removed bolt at caliper.  I bought a 10mm 12pt socket to make it easier.  I will probably replace it with a chrome allen head bolt from harley, not sure yet.  Here is the cable.

    Here's the master cylinder after I drained it and then the m/c cover.

    Here's the new brake line with banjo bolts and washers.

    Well, I've been putting this part off for a day or so now, but I had to face potentially the hardest part about this install.  BLEEDING THE BRAKES!  I read some horror stories about bleeding the brakes.  For instance. HDWG has a post on this forum regarding this topic.  He tried and tried and tried and I believe he finally took it to the dealer.  I thought about buying a speed bleeder or the like, but I decided to get creative and do some digging into the topic.  I came to this page here:
    I took fluid mechanics in college, so I understand the concept pretty well, but sometimes theory needs to be thrown out the window.  Anyway, I tweaked that idea a little as some others recommended and came up with this setup.


    So I decided to go looking on my lunch hour and I purchased everything at...wait for it...WALMART, and I apologize for that!  I knew better but they had everything I needed.  The oil cans were $4 or so a piece, the tube was $2 for 10 foot and the DOT 4 was around $6 I think.  Anyway, I hooked the hose up to the bleeder valve, filled the can about 3/4 full, took lid off master cylinder to keep an eye on the level, and started pumping away.  You will have air in the hose and air in the line and air in the m/c, but that won't matter because the fluid will push it all out the top of the m/c.  So my second set of hands (dad) started pumping away and nothing was happening.  That's because we forgot to loosen the bleeder valve.  So now we were set and he pumped until the m/c was about half full.  I figured we'd be at it again the next day because their were air bubbles all over in that tubing and I was sure there was air in the line.  Well once the m/c was half full, I put the lid on and had nothing.  I had absolutely no pressure on the lever and I was about to cry.  So I didn't panic and continued with what I had read. It said to then begin bleeding the conventional way.  So I pumped the lever a dozen times or so and then held the lever in, and at the same time my dad opened the bleeder valve.  So you pump and hold, crack open bleeder valve, tighten bleeder valve, and then repeat those steps.  For the first 5 times or so we had a fair amount of air and not much pressure.  After about 10 times it was nothing but fluid and I had AWESOME pressure at the lever.  I put the m/c cover on and tightened everything up good, checked for leaks and was done with it.  I highly recommed this way.  Forget the speed bleeders, forget the mityvacs and vacuum pumps.  This worked very well!  Heres a shot of the caliper, bleeder valve, banjo bolt with crush washers and the new cable with teflon tape at end of banjo bolt.

    Heres a shot of the m/c and upper banjo bolt w/ crush washers and teflon tape where banjo bolt meets cable.

    All that I have left is installing the clutch cable and buttoning up.  I'm getting excited and will be a happy camper.   Heres a picture showing the progress (pre brake cable) and also the 49mm kuryakyn turn signal mounts.  The kit is actually for their turn signals but it will work with minor modifications.  The bolt they provide is coarse thread and the threads in turn signal are fine thread.  Heres a picture of the progress up to now and also a picture of the kuryakyn mounts.

    Well, I put the progressive 11" 412s on .  Here is a shot of the bike as it sits now.  I will get high resolution pictures later.

    The weather is crap here in iowa as evident in the sig pic, so I'm taking my time with it.  I hope this helps some of those out who are on the fence and not sure if they can do it.  Everything is done with simple hand tools.  Thanks

  • vladt Posts: 279
    Melbourne, Vic
    Stage 1 Poster vladt
    28 Jan 2008 01:46 PM
    where do you buy those oil cans from? I don't remember ever seeing them at Bunnings or Repco or any auto stores I've been to.
  • Crasher Posts: 0
    28 Jan 2008 11:27 PM

    That StreetBob is looking mighty fine with them Bars Mate!!!...how do ya like them,great step by step pics thanx for that

    stay safe


  • vladt Posts: 279
    Melbourne, Vic
    Stage 1 Poster vladt
    31 Jan 2008 12:46 PM
    I did look around and couldn't find it.
    Have you had a better luck looking?
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