I have just recieved and fitted these oil coolers to 2 mates bikes, one a 2003 Dyna and the other a 2007 Heritage.
Now I have had a factory oil cooler on my own 2008 Softail since day 1 , all plumbed in with an adapter plate.
Came as a kit , part number 26157-07 A bit of work to fit it involved
I bought that out of the States from a Harley dealer in 2008 when you could still do that.
They were something silly close to $700 here then and now !!
Fitted them up to my 2 mates bikes and conducted as unbiased a scientific test programme as we could.
( Ok we went to the country pub , went to the coastal cafe and all that usual shit !!)
On all kinds of running my 2008 Softail Custom and the 2007 Heritage now show the same oil temp on the dipstick oil temp guage. Both sit dead on 200F after a run on a warmish day.
My 2008 Custom has sat at 200F since I have owned it, the Heritage up until 2 weeks ago would sit at 220F+ at most times
My synopsis ( as a Scientist ) is that the slip-on cooler is just as effective as the bolt-in factory kit for a fraction of the cost.
Prolly why HD don't sell them any more !! Link to them on US ebay attached, hope it's live folks !!
The dude is good to deal with , and I'm NOT affiliated in any way , just a happy customer.
I too have the factory oil cooler installed, but looking at the slipon cooler, working on a heat sink principal, im just wondering, how hard it would be to make with a small cut out in it to allow to slip on with the oil cooler hoses, If the slipon drops temp by 21 degrees, i think i read, wondering what temp drop you would get with a oval cutout on side,
Hmm think i might look into this.
Slip on heatsink principal oil coolers.
All i can think of is this???
As the slipon cooler is aluminium which draws heat from a surface far quicker than orther materials, The aluminium in drawing heat from the hot steel oil filter surface then using air flow to remove heat so:
Im wondering how a sort of compromise would work.
Say 1/2 wide aluminium rings, in the style of a clamp. An allen key to clamp ring to filter. Then screw enough clamps on till end of filter. The outer surface of each ring could be ribbed or fined to give a little more ring surface area for heat transfer and area for air to flow over.
The idea is to have a gap between rings, say 3/16 or 1/4 inch or so so some air flow directly over filter as soon as forward motion occurs.
The only problem with the idea ,I can see is temporarily fitting a before and after temp sender units to system to record temps to verify results, and to muck around with rings to see difference, Bigger or smaller gaps, wider rings, ect, As from memory, I think when I installed factory oil cooler, I might of read that it has a temp valve or somethimg installed that opens oil flow to oil cooler at a certain temp, Not sure and cant remember.
The rings could have indents or concave c sections filed or machined out to suit fitting on.
Of course the cost would be to high to get a number of test rings made to try this or that.
Might be something a bloke with a home lathe or better still, a home milling machine, could muck about with, and at small cost as only need a small piece of aluminium thick tube.
Just an idea.
i had one of the cooler collers on my evo but now run a one of the ultima down tube type which thay work better in perth weather in summer as i still ran the the coller as well but due to it running cooler with the down tube one aswell it would move around on the filter as thay work off heat interferance fit and that was with a oem filter aswell
I just recieved one in the mail...Does it just slip on with the fins to the front???What stops it from slipping back off or is the fit tight enough to keep it there???
just pushes over Sparra ,as long as its a HD filter , I've got 1 and i use K+N filters which measures the same dia. should be firmish. cheers moff.