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  • noctm Posts: 379
    WA
    Stage 1 Poster noctm
    03 Aug 2015 05:39 PM

    Hi all. Came across this write up online when looking for some guidance as per the SE Smart Tune process and figured I would share it because I found it very helpful, courtesy of Foxster from Harley Davdison Hangout:

     

    How to do a Smart tune with a SEPST

    Coupla notes before we get started: 

    The HD documentation and the SEPST software interface are notoriously poor. So, I thought I’d write a simple-ish step-by-step guide for newbies. 

    This is about using the Screamin’ Eagle Pro Super Tuner, not other models like the SERT or TTS.

    As well as the SEPST’s VCI interface box itself, you will also need the separately purchased software and interface leads. Available at your local dealer or online. 

    You can use Smart tune with a dyno or on its own – I’ll be covering using it without a dyno. You won’t get perfect results this way but it’ll be pretty darn good. 

    Why Smart Tune?
    When you swap out the hardware on a Harley you get changes in the flow of air and fuel. Using Smart tune you can get the bike to tune itself to something close to the optimal air fuel ratios, these having been altered by a change in air cleaner, exhaust, throttle body, cams, etc. 

    Summary
    I’ll cover:
    • Loading a base calibration
    • Recording data
    • Using Smart tune to change the base calibration
    • Reflashing the ECU with the changed calibration

    Loading a base calibration (AKA “map" )

    I’m assuming you know enough to install the SEPST software and start it. It comes with instructions for this. Note: this whole thing is much easier using a laptop because you can get it near your bike. 

    You need the SEPST software in "Tuning mode: Advanced" to do this (setup option). 

    1. Once you have the main SEPST screen up, select “Tuning” (the tuning fork icon). 

    2. Hit “Manually Select File” and navigate to the appropriate directory where the software installed the canned maps (.dt0 files). This is typically in “C:\Program Data\Super Tuner\Delphi\Tuning Files\Big Twins\”. You will need to plough through a long list of maps. The details for the map will be displayed if you click on a file name.

    3. Select the map that most closely matches your hardware. For instance, if you have a stage 2 Fat Bob with SE204 cams then you’d want the 176ST002.dt0 map. Unfortunately, HD doesn’t supply maps for non-Harley hardware so if you have non-Harley hardware then it’s a matter of making the closest guess. Generally, the stage 1 maps are fine for any stage 1 hardware; after that it gets tricky.

    Connecting the VCI to your bike and laptop

    4. Turn off the bike.

    5. Pull off the battery cover on the left side of the bike. Here you will find an oblong grey connector with a black rubber bung in the end. Slide the grey connector out of its slot and take out the black bung. 

    6. Insert the correct VCI lead into the grey connector. 

    7. Connect the other lead from the VCI to your laptop’s USB port. 

    Uploading the new map into the bike

    8. Try not to spend too long on the next part because your ignition and headlight will be on but the engine won’t be running and this will flatten your battery after 30 mins or so. 

    9. Turn on your bike’s ignition switch and have the Run/Stop switch set to Run but don’t fire up the engine!

    10. If the connections are all good then you should see the previously greyed-out “Reflash” icon (the bike with lightning) has now become active. If not, then you need to check the connections again and maybe read the SEPST help files relating to connecting up the VCI. 

    11. Press the “Reflash” icon.

    12. On the next screen under “Programming Status” there are two radio buttons; make sure both “Enable Smart tune Reflash” and “Reset Adaptive Fuel” are selected. 

    13. Hit “Program ECM Cal” and click “OK” to confirm. 

    14. Do not mess about with anything now! You can screw up your bike if you do. Just sit on your hands. 

    15. When “Flash Update Process Complete” is displayed, follow the instructions on the screen exactly: Turn off the ignition and wait 10 seconds.

    16. Click "OK" to clear the message.

    Great. The bike now has a nice new calibration/map loaded that matches your hardware. Next step is to tune this in for your bike.

    Recording data

    You still have the VCI all connected up, right?

    17. Turn the ignition switch back on.

    18. Click the “Toolbox” icon (looks like a toolbox, duh).

    19. If things are connected up OK then the bottom three icons on the left of the screen will now be available. 

    20. Select the “VCI Data Record” icon. 

    21. At the next screen (“VCI Data Record" ), click “VCI Record Start”.

    22. Follow the instructions and, when prompted, turn off the bike and disconnect the VCI from the laptop but not the bike. 

    23. The VCI has to stay on the bike. So find somewhere to tape it up or bung it in a pannier. 

    24. Get geared up and ready to spend an hour out on the road. You want a nice long, quiet stretch of road where you can drive safely and uninterrupted at all road speeds in all gears. Finding this road is one of the hardest bits of the tuning process. 

    25. Don’t start recording until the engine is warm.

    26. When you reach your “test track”, pull over and leave the engine running. 

    27. Press the button once on the VCI. The light should start to flash. 

    28. Now ride the bike in all gears and at all speeds and at all throttle openings. Try to cover as much variation in driving conditions as you can. The SEPST only records at steady speed, so hold each speed/gear for about 10 seconds. You will be able to record for about an hour, which is usually plenty of time to get bored. Don’t forget to just ride the bike for a while like you normally would too, trying to cover around-town and highway riding.

    29. LEAVE THE BIKE RUNNING – if you turn off now all your riding time will be wasted! 

    30. Once you are finished capturing data and/or are back home LEAVE THE BIKE RUNNING!

    31. Press the button on the SEPST once. The light becomes steady. 

    32. Now you can turn off the bike.

    Getting the recorded data from the bike

    33. Reconnect the SEPST to your laptop. Turn on the bike’s ignition switch.

    34. In the SEPST “Toolbox” menu on the “VCI Data Record” screen, select the “Download data” tab.

    35. Download the recorded data following the prompts on the screen. Make a note of the filename of the saved data e.g. scribble down something like:
    “VCI_121-124211_7.hdx: first data run recorded on March 1st 2012 with new stage 2 hardware fitted, driving about the A14 and the airfield”. 

    OK so far? You’ve done the hard bit and now all you need to do is merge the recorded data into the canned map you chose earlier, stick this onto the bike and Robert’s your Mum’s brother!

    36. If you turned off your laptop then fire it up again, run the SEPST software and load the map you used before, it cannot be a different map with different settings. See steps 1 to 3 above. 

    37. Go to the “Tuning” screen and click on the “+” signs to expand the “VE Front Cyl” and “VE Rear Cyl” displays on the left of the screen so that you can see “Working”, “Last Saved”, “Original” and “Smart tune” under them.

    38. Click and drag the “Working” version of the “VE Front Cyl” table into the lower half of the big space over to the right, selecting the “Display as table” option as you let the mouse button go. 

    39. Click and drag the “Smart tune” version of the “VE Front Cyl” table into the upper half of the big space over to the right, selecting the “Display as table” option as you let the mouse button go. It doesn’t matter really which cylinder you do first or which two of the four windows you use. Drag and stretch the two windows you used so you can see the tables in both. 

    40. In the “Smart tune, VE Front Cyl” window, click “Add New...” and use the dialogue file box to locate the file of data you saved in step 35 and open it. You’ll get an error if you try to load a data file recorded using a different map. In the future you might have several sessions’ worth of recorded data and you can open them all now. 

    41. Now hit “Generate”. It’ll take a little while to generate the new VE table. 

    42. When it’s finished generating, the “Please wait” disappears and the “Update” button will no longer be greyed out. 

    43. Check the modified cells in the “Smart tune” table. The ones that the tuning session got data updates for are shown. The actual contents aren’t terribly important at this level of tuning. What is of interest though is the range of the cells you have managed to get data for. You’ll probably have a rash of cells across the middle of the table and not much at the extremes. That’s OK if you did your usual riding as there will be data for that. The cells with no updates are what you missed on your ride and you might want to repeat this all later and try to hit some of those throttle position v RPM combos. 

    44. Once you are bored with looking at that, hit “Update”. 

    45. Look now at the “Working” table. The cells to be changed are highlighted in turquoise. 

    46. Repeat steps 38 to 45 for the other cylinder. 

    47. Save your modified map by hitting the “Save As...” button on the top right of the screen. Try to give it a useful name, like “176ST002 with first data run made on 1 March 2012.dt0”. 

    Getting your new tuned map into the bike

    48. Make sure you have your modified map selected on the “Tuning” screen if you have more than one map open.

    49. Now reflash the ECM as you did in steps 8 to 16, except do not select “Enable Smart Tune Reflash” but do select “Reset Adaptive Fuel”. 

    50. Follow the on-screen steps like you did before. Then turn off the bike, disconnect everything and wait at least 10 secs before starting the bike. 

    And that’s all there is to it! You will now have a tuned map in the bike that matches your hardware.

     

  • Baloffski Posts: 0
    Baloffski
    11 Aug 2015 12:40 PM
    Hey noctm,
    shit hot mate, am checking out.
    thanks
    Baloff
  • calabashmc Posts: 1
    Stock Poster calabashmc
    02 Nov 2015 01:26 PM
    Great instructions but I have one problem - in step 12
    12. On the next screen under “Programming Status” there are two radio buttons; make sure both “Enable Smart tune Reflash” and “Reset Adaptive Fuel” are selected.

    I can only select "Reset Adaptive Fuel", the check box for “Enable Smart tune Reflash” is disabled. It is there I just can't check it.
    Any clues?
  • noctm Posts: 379
    WA
    Stage 1 Poster noctm
    02 Nov 2015 01:54 PM

    I'm not too sure what the problem is mate as I haven't encountered that myself. All I can say is make sure the software is all up to date and follow the instructions carefully and closely step by step.

    I've gone through the process many times and I still check this guide step by step to make sure I'm following it correctly and I've had nothing but success.

  • Robbdasnake Posts: 188
    North Queensland
    Stock Poster Robbdasnake
    03 Nov 2015 03:36 PM
    Thanks heaps for this instruction post mate,
    I find myself ready to try tuning my 2014 Wide Glide myself after totally loosing confidence with my Local HD dealer after a lot of issues. Anyway, looking forwards I got a couple of questions for those far more learned than I .
    Firstly. My sled is stock( still) apart from a 2 into 1 Exhaust From Ron Hacker which I'm stoked with. And a Performance Machine Max HP air cleaner with KN filter.These are both pretty unrestrictive items and the exhaust in particular is good for some good numbers from what the manufacturer shows me .It don't have any butt plugs or any superficial tricks , just an outer perforated sort of a baffle thing that doesn't restrict the diameter of the muffler.
    Its been tuned using this Calibration file in the Screaming eagle pro super tuner software:357SDQ001 which looks to my uneducated eyes as a standard Stage 1 cal.It has a suffix on the end .01 that I'm presuming to mean they fiddled with it a small amount, It has Popped a lot since its been installed. ( I just have been away working for most of this year and haven't had time to fuck around with it),Like I Mean POPPED. Its been serviced by the Dealer since new, and has had exhaust leaking issues since the Pipe was put on, I am checking and tightening it when needed before I ride it regularly.
    Ok my first question is, what rev limit should I be at as I'm still on standard cams and for my riding I rarely see 5k on the tach.
    Second of all should the Auto compression release be deactivated? I'm suspicious this is off so the dealer can sell me a new started motor if/when mine fails no doubt just out of warranty.
    Now I am computer literate and I understand EFI and closed loop /open loop, AFRs( Lambda) and VE tables. Just not on my Harley.So I'm taking it slow and having a look at the software and learning when I have a chance to sit with the lappy and really study it. Im ready to do try a Map and do some smart tune runs.
    Thirdly , does altitude make a difference? I have a stretch of road in mind to do smart tune runs on but its up past Mareeba which is a lot higher than sea level.
    fourth, what tension can the exhaust studs take? and what if any measures can I adapt so it doesn't come loose,Am I up for new exhaust gaskets? Should I put another nut on them to lock against the first one?
    I appreciate all the smart people on this site and if any of you have any ideas Ide be grateful.
    Stay safe you lot and cheers.
  • Tat2_u Posts: 372
    Stage 1 Poster Tat2_u
    03 Nov 2015 04:44 PM
    Thanks for posting
  • noctm Posts: 379
    WA
    Stage 1 Poster noctm
    03 Nov 2015 05:04 PM
    Posted By Robbdasnake on 03 Nov 2015 2:06 PM
    Thanks heaps for this instruction post mate,
    I find myself ready to try tuning my 2014 Wide Glide myself after totally loosing confidence with my Local HD dealer after a lot of issues. Anyway, looking forwards I got a couple of questions for those far more learned than I .
    Firstly. My sled is stock( still) apart from a 2 into 1 Exhaust From Ron Hacker which I'm stoked with. And a Performance Machine Max HP air cleaner with KN filter.These are both pretty unrestrictive items and the exhaust in particular is good for some good numbers from what the manufacturer shows me .It don't have any butt plugs or any superficial tricks , just an outer perforated sort of a baffle thing that doesn't restrict the diameter of the muffler.
    Its been tuned using this Calibration file in the Screaming eagle pro super tuner software:357SDQ001 which looks to my uneducated eyes as a standard Stage 1 cal.It has a suffix on the end .01 that I'm presuming to mean they fiddled with it a small amount, It has Popped a lot since its been installed. ( I just have been away working for most of this year and haven't had time to fuck around with it),Like I Mean POPPED. Its been serviced by the Dealer since new, and has had exhaust leaking issues since the Pipe was put on, I am checking and tightening it when needed before I ride it regularly.
    Ok my first question is, what rev limit should I be at as I'm still on standard cams and for my riding I rarely see 5k on the tach.
    Second of all should the Auto compression release be deactivated? I'm suspicious this is off so the dealer can sell me a new started motor if/when mine fails no doubt just out of warranty.
    Now I am computer literate and I understand EFI and closed loop /open loop, AFRs( Lambda) and VE tables. Just not on my Harley.So I'm taking it slow and having a look at the software and learning when I have a chance to sit with the lappy and really study it. Im ready to do try a Map and do some smart tune runs.
    Thirdly , does altitude make a difference? I have a stretch of road in mind to do smart tune runs on but its up past Mareeba which is a lot higher than sea level.
    fourth, what tension can the exhaust studs take? and what if any measures can I adapt so it doesn't come loose,Am I up for new exhaust gaskets? Should I put another nut on them to lock against the first one?
    I appreciate all the smart people on this site and if any of you have any ideas Ide be grateful.
    Stay safe you lot and cheers.

    Firstly - Yeah it sounds like a bog standard map has been applied. The .01 suffix does lead me to believe it has been edited though, but to what extent nobody would know except for the dealer. If it's been popping then it's safe to assume the tune is not quite right, unless the exhaust leak you found and tightened up has sorted that, in which case the tune might be OK but it would still be a good idea to run a few smart tunes as there's always room for improvment. With regards to the rev and idle limit, my understanding is that you shouldn't really need to mess with that unless you have started to play with actual internals, cams etc. but I am by no means an expert. When I was using a powervision, I seem to recall it automatically adjusting rev limit which I felt was uneccessary in that case.

    Secondly - Can't help you there mate as I have not really looked into those settings nor have I reached a point where compression has been something I need to worry about, at least with regards to tuning with the SE stuff. Maybe someone more knowledgeable in that area can weigh in.

    Thirdly - Altitude does play a part and can throw out the AFR if it is abnormal to your normal riding conditions. The advice I have been given is to ride where and how you would normally when collecting data for the SE Smart Tune and it seems to have served me well. I'm in WA though and we're pretty fucking flat so it might play a bigger role where you are.

    Fourthly - Can't remember the specific torque specs but the owners manual should have that in there, or maybe the install instructions that the aftermarket pipe came with. I use the medium loctite on my bracket nuts but there's not much point using that where the pipes meet the heads because it's not heat resistent, at least not the loctite I have. My experience has taught me that re-torquing the nuts after each ride until they stop loosening is the best way to ensure they stop coming loose. I do about 100KM a day and it took about a week of re-torquing the nuts each day until they stopped becoming loose and obviously they should get less loose each time.

     

  • Robbdasnake Posts: 188
    North Queensland
    Stock Poster Robbdasnake
    04 Nov 2015 02:06 PM
    Thanks mate .
  • Robbdasnake Posts: 188
    North Queensland
    Stock Poster Robbdasnake
    04 Nov 2015 09:10 PM
    Ok been reading a bit more , Now do ya reckon I should stay with this map and do some smart tune runs ? Rather than changing it back to the original 357SDQ001 Stage 1 map and alter it to 2-1 exhaust and free flowing intake etc? Anyone know about this ACR setting in a stock motor? Should it be activated or not. It says in the workshop manual its on by default.
    I hope I'm not asking stupid questions but am just well over the BS the dealer tells me and want to do it myself.
    Stay safe you lot
  • noctm Posts: 379
    WA
    Stage 1 Poster noctm
    04 Nov 2015 10:06 PM

    I would recommend putting on whatever base map is closest to your set-up and then smart tune from there. If you have a 2-1 system and the map they've put on is 2-2 then I'd select a more appropriate map for a 2-1 system and then run a few smart tunes to get it nice and close from there.

    RE: ACR - If it's on by default in the software, and that's what the manual says, then I would personally leave it as is.

    There are no stupid questions mate despite what some people might tell you. We're all in the same boat pretty much, some with more experience than others, but the point of a forum is to be able to ask questions you haven't got a satisfying answer to elsewhere in the hopes someone else has encountered or experienced that same situation and can help out. The only thing that personally shits me is when a question has been asked 1000000 times and someone posts it again without searching first, but even then I'm not too bothered because not everyone knows how forums work.

  • robots Posts: 1140
    Performance Poster robots
    05 Nov 2015 07:57 AM
    Acr should be activated

    Start watching rpm when popping occurs, take notes
  • Lushy Posts: 185
    Stock Poster Lushy
    06 Nov 2015 12:08 PM
    When in doubt look under "help" in the software.... that is the instructions.
  • Robbdasnake Posts: 188
    North Queensland
    Stock Poster Robbdasnake
    06 Nov 2015 09:46 PM
    Thanks heaps noctm,robots and Lushy. Really appreciate all the help you guys are giving me.
    I'm gonna give it shot tomorrow.
    Cheers
    Stay safe all .
  • lockwood Posts: 26
    Stock Poster lockwood
    18 Nov 2015 06:32 PM
    The 2015 model, 103ci, stage 1 tune file in the Screaming Eagle Pro Tuner, has the ACR turned off as a default, does anyone know the reasoning behind this? Also, I can't see any provision for turning off the Active Exhaust Valve or the Air Intake Valve. I know you can wedge the exhaust valve open, but I'd like to turn it off.
    Any HELPFUL suggestions, without profanities, would be appreciated
  • Lushy Posts: 185
    Stock Poster Lushy
    27 Nov 2015 11:46 AM
    Once again mate check the instructions.. There is a window for turning off the exh valve.
  • lockwood Posts: 26
    Stock Poster lockwood
    27 Nov 2015 04:51 PM

    Hi Lushy,

    For tthe find it life of me I can't find it. I've been through all the various settings and screens. Do you know where the option is? You can call me on 0477 77 00 17 if need be.

    Cheers and thanks

    John

  • brettm357 Posts: 107
    Stock Poster brettm357
    09 Dec 2015 12:36 AM

    I m also unable to find setting to turn off active exhaust

  • Donster Posts: 61
    Sydney NSW
    Stock Poster Donster
    09 Dec 2015 07:30 AM

     

    If you use the search function in this forum,  enable ACR - you will get a post that has a straight forward instruction (I did just that last weekend).

    Load your tuning file (calibration).

    Scroll down to "tuning setup" and click on the + symbol, then drag "working" across to the main window on far right.   Now you should see the ACR tab in this window, go there and click on ACR Enable.

    Then do a Save or Save As, and now you need to connect to your bike to re-install the revised file

     

  • Crusti Posts: 19
    Gold Coast, Queensland
    Stock Poster Crusti
    29 May 2016 05:42 PM


    HD Forums Australia - 20160529_165722_resized.jpg

    I've just done a first run and managed to get data for these cells.

    When I do another run do I use the original canned map as described in step 1 and 2 or do i load the new map I have generated.

    Thanks Crusti

  • noctm Posts: 379
    WA
    Stage 1 Poster noctm
    30 May 2016 11:09 AM

    Hey mate,

    If ya doing a second smart tune run, you load the map you saved off the back of your previous run & changes and keep going from there

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