More grunt wanted - Fatboy S twin cam

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  • ToeCutter21
    ToeCutter21
    6 years ago
    I apologise upfront for the broad nature of this post. Ive got a 2016 Fatboy S with the 110ci donk. I love upgrading stuff. I have no particular complaints or performance targets - I just like knowing it’s producing more grunt. 
    From what I’ve read - a stage IV upgrade could reduce the engine life and really reaps benefits in the higher rev range. The idea of running at higher revs doesn’t really appeal to me as I do a lot of highway riding so I’m wondering if a stage II or stage III would be worthwhile. 

    I take the missus on the back quite a bit, so low down grunt and highway overtaking power is important. 

    It’s a 600km round trip to the dealership and I’m not insistent on using only HD stuff. A mate of mine in town swears by a mate of his who can do a cam and tune for $1100 and give me over 100hp. Backyard mechanics make me nervous but I also don’t like paying a dealership premium when “non brand” parts often give far better bang for buck. 

    So my current bike has stage I. I’ve moved from jap bikes and have friends with Vrods which really highlights that the 110ci stage I really is quite underpowered. I’m not after a drag bike or something that will stall riding around town. Just a nice upgrade to give me more grunt without making my bike a high maintenance time bomb. 
  • fatbat
    fatbat
    6 years ago
    A cam change and tune isn't gonna give you much because of the low compression that the 110ci engine runs. In other words, there aren't many cams around to suit that low compression that are gonna perform much different than what you have. 
    Go to 117. Or up your compression with headwork and/or change of pistons. But by then you're getting close to the cost of the 117 kit 
  • ToeCutter21
    ToeCutter21
    6 years ago
    I’m happy to go to 117 but am concerned about shortening the lifespan and/or reducing rideability. 
  • ToeCutter21
    ToeCutter21
    6 years ago
    I’m happy to pay to do it right - I just don’t want to have repeated trips back to a tuner or dealership for an engine that’s always playing up. 
    To give a comparison - I’ve got a V8 Commodore that I put a high flow air intake on with a custom tune. It’s very civilised to drive but when I put my foot down there’s a noticeable improvement in power over stock. It’s not a drag car, it’s not lumpy and stalling at lights, it’s not leaking oil and throwing engine warning lights all the time. It’s just a moderately noticeable improvement while retaining its manners to keep the wife happy. 
  • ToeCutter21
    ToeCutter21
    6 years ago
    Where would I find these people bearing in mind I live in the middle of nowhere NSW?
  • Ratbob
    Ratbob
    6 years ago
    An SE585 cam with +4 degree key will, subject to pipes, give a 10 % bump for tourque and power. Sorry I’m overseas or I’d post a dyno sheet. Very flat and extended torque curve too. No other changes made.
  • Odin
    Odin
    6 years ago
    Mark Hood and Neville Lush are both in South Australia
  • ToeCutter21
    ToeCutter21
    6 years ago
    If I opted for Stage 2 to see how it goes, then choose Stage 4 down the track - would that be a waste of money? Or would Stage 4 be cheaper because I already have Stage 2 parts installed?
  • Baloffski
    Baloffski
    6 years ago


    "It’s a discussion forum. If I need help I’ll call triple zero. In the mean time I’ll pick the brains of the very smart people here for good ideas related to my motorcycle."
    Mate, myself I love reading. Have been known to take my Harley Manual to bed for bedside read , is sad, but learning is good..you smart bloke by even asking, read more and more and you"ll have the answer..
    Good blokes on this read are smarter than me and you, pick their brains, experience and knowledge which does not come out of the sky.
    Sorry, what were we talking about?  

  • DJP_120ci
    DJP_120ci
    6 years ago
    Can someone explain what constitutes a stage 1, stage 2 etc? Something I have always been curious about 
  • Iron
    Iron
    5 years ago
    As far as costs go I just picked up a slim flss with 259e cams and pistons all done by HH and the cost for that was $6000 they said the work done was between a stage 3 & 4 the bike has only done 8500km and goes like a rocket. I also got a extended 3 year warranty which includes cover on the work done by HH
  • fatbat
    fatbat
    5 years ago
    Or its the 117 kit?
  • spacewolf
    spacewolf
    5 years ago
    The wife and I found the 110's in our Slim S and Low Rider S a little underpowered also, and went the 117 route with both bikes. Hers suffered from out of round cylinders and had a new motor replaced under warranty (with a new 117 kit fitted), mine hasn't skipped a beat.
    The difference twixt the 110 and 117 is night and day, the 117 is so much better you'll wonder why HD don't do all their engines like it.

    We paid $4200 per 117 kit inc installation and mapping, and I assure you it'll be the best money you'll spend.
  • rodrocket
    rodrocket
    5 years ago

    Like ToeCutter I have been tossing this around in my head for the past 12 months or so

    Trying to decide on weather to go 117 or stick with the 110Ci

    My bike is factory with to 255 cam shaft I have fitted the V&H Big Radius 2 into 2 but will replace them with the D&D lowcat that I bought 12 months ago but haven't found time to fit yet :)

    Not sure what cam or pipes ToeCutter has

    If I am going to open it up to go 117Ci I will only use the HD cylinders as there is better pistons out there to bump the comp up to suit the camshaft choice also the cylinder gasket is a critical piece of the puzzle

    I think what needs to be looked at as where you will ride the bike (RPM) as this will be critical in camshaft choice

    I changed the front pulley on my bike a couple of weeks after I bought it as 6th gear was totally useless here in Vic now the bike feels much more lighter and smooth, along with my next lot of mods when time permits I will be upgrading the rear pulley, just need to find something that matches my wheels

    The pulley upgrade is worth its weight in gold, for anyone looking to play I would suggest to start there especially those that ride two up you will be amazed at the difference especially chugging around corners at low speeds

    As for smoke the pulley upgrade is good fun..................... 

  • brash
    brash
    5 years ago

    Is that the 30T front sprocket Rod?

    It's on my "to do" list as well.

  • me_ashman
    me_ashman
    5 years ago
    Is there anything that needs modding or it's a straight swap out to change to the 30t? 
  • brash
    brash
    5 years ago
    Heard good things about the andrews pulley.

    me_ashman, needs to speedo corrected but that's a 2 second job with any capable tuner.
  • me_ashman
    me_ashman
    5 years ago
    Ok, that's easy enough. Cheers.
  • rodrocket
    rodrocket
    5 years ago

    Further update, I just went and found the box from the pulley that I used its part number 83595-11 if anyone wants to order one its a Tri Glide 30T transmission sprocket


    the weights are not exact but the original weighs approximately 2.7Kg & the label on the cardboard box shows the 30 tooth weighs 2.32 KG

  • me_ashman
    me_ashman
    5 years ago
    Ok, Thanks.
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