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  Ratbob

  5 years ago

  Steel into aluminium, hm. Tourqueing up bottom left trans cover stud, 32 nm, yep, just keeps turning. 

  Could be 10mm thread left as stud is shorter than hole. 

  Anyone else had the pleasure and resolved it without a helicoil?

  
  
  

  

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  markwoumla

  5 years ago

  The easy fix ,,, I would get a longer bolt , (if you are confident you have some extra threads down the hole), and snug bolt, (don't torque)... …

  Even with one bolt missing , if all the other bolts are torqued correctly you should not have any leaking ….

  
  

  If you don't like the above, the only option is helicoil or time-sert… Personally I would go time-sert , same principle, but in my opinion a better solution ….  

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  markwoumla

  5 years ago

  Gee Hilly ,,,,

  We must have gone to the same school !!!!   LOL ….

  
  

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  Ratbob

  5 years ago

  I’ve used helicoils extensively before and never had any issues but those time serts look way better, thanks for the lead.

  The original stud only pulled out 10 mm of thread so as there’s another 11mm of hole depth I’ll thread it and insert a threaded rod and whack on a nut, leaving some thread for the exhaust mount, if it doesn’t tourque up I’ll get a time sert kit, they do look good.

  Thanks guys.

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  markwoumla

  5 years ago

  Quoting Ratbob on 15 Oct 2018 11:14 PM

  I’ve used helicoils extensively before and never had any issues but those time serts look way better, thanks for the lead.

  The original stud only pulled out 10 mm of thread so as there’s another 11mm of hole depth I’ll thread it and insert a threaded rod and whack on a nut, leaving some thread for the exhaust mount, if it doesn’t tourque up I’ll get a time sert kit, they do look good.

  Thanks guys.

  Your description seems to say that the stripped hole is one that accommodates the exhaust mount/bracket …. I was under the impression that the two bolts to the right, (in pic), would have been the fixing bolts for the exhaust mount/bracket ,, My bad...

  That being the case,,, (in my opinion),, I would definitely install a time sert, to get same or better fixing strength    …. You don't want a situation of a loose exhaust bracket and loose exhaust... You may get away with what your proposing , (threaded rod etc )…. Your call ….. 

• 

  Ratbob

  5 years ago

  Quoting Ratbob on 15 Oct 2018 11:14 PM

  I’ve used helicoils extensively before and never had any issues but those time serts look way better, thanks for the lead.

  The original stud only pulled out 10 mm of thread so as there’s another 11mm of hole depth I’ll thread it and insert a threaded rod and whack on a nut, leaving some thread for the exhaust mount, if it doesn’t tourque up I’ll get a time sert kit, they do look good.

  Thanks guys.

  Quoting markwoumla on 16 Oct 2018 02:12 AMedited: 16 Oct 2018 02:12 AM

  Your description seems to say that the stripped hole is one that accommodates the exhaust mount/bracket …. I was under the impression that the two bolts to the right, (in pic), would have been the fixing bolts for the exhaust mount/bracket ,, My bad...

  That being the case,,, (in my opinion),, I would definitely install a time sert, to get same or better fixing strength    …. You don't want a situation of a loose exhaust bracket and loose exhaust... You may get away with what your proposing , (threaded rod etc )…. Your call ….. 

  Hi Mark

  The two hex screws to the right aren't used to hold the stock exhaust mount.  The first one to the right is used for some V&H pipes like the big radius I've just removed.
  

  In all there are three bolts holding the exhaust mount, two on the trans side door and a large bolt that goes into the hole you see at the top of the pic.

  I hear what you're saying but for now, I'm not keen on removing the side door and all that follows to do one time-sert but guess I'll have to if it doesn't tourque up.
  

  
  

  Others BE WARNED
  

  Head scratching on why it stripped out.  I'm very careful, never tighten anything without referring to the ol torque sheet.

  The values on my service manual say 24nm for the trans case side door screws but Harley released a service bulletin M1305, I think it was 2011, because of leak issues setting the new torque to 34nm, wonder if they did any testing ? I should have looked cause today I found a couple of reports on stripped threads or cracked cases, duh, so I've wound everything back to 24nm and will keep watch.
  

  
  
  

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  tussuck

  5 years ago

  TimeSert everytime.  Had 3 of my cam cover bolts strip out and a timesert nailed the repair (good as new).  Only thing is that they are not cheap, but once purchased the inserts are cheap.

  
  

  What size are those holes? 

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  Ratbob

  5 years ago

  Quoting tussuck on 16 Oct 2018 04:47 AM

  TimeSert everytime.  Had 3 of my cam cover bolts strip out and a timesert nailed the repair (good as new).  Only thing is that they are not cheap, but once purchased the inserts are cheap.

  
  

  What size are those holes? 

  I don't have accurate calipers but I reckon it's 5/16 or around 7.6 mm.
  

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  Ratbob

  5 years ago

  Sorry Hilly, don’t understand, what would I be kidding about?
  
  

  

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  98fxstc

  5 years ago

  Not Hilly
  but not too many metric bolts on a harley and certainly not transmission.
  

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  98fxstc

  5 years ago

  Probably the vibration of the exhaust transferring to the bracket that has stripped the thread rather than overtorquing.
  I would try a longer bolt and make use of the threads that are left in any other situation but not here.
  Time Sert
  

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  Ratbob

  5 years ago

  Quoting 98fxstc on 16 Oct 2018 08:32 PMedited: 16 Oct 2018 08:39 PM

  Not Hilly
  but not too many metric bolts on a harley and certainly not transmission.
  

  Ha ha, ok I get it, but like it or not 5/16 is 7.6 mm which with my shitty measuring stick I have to convert back to 5/16 cause if I press the inch button it reads .30 inch. 

  Gotta get a better stick, but I’m too cheap.

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  tussuck

  5 years ago

  Just checked by two kits and they will not fit your need (I have a 1/4" x 20 for Primary cover and Cam bolts & a 5/8" x 18 for timing inspection hole in an Evo case)

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  Ratbob

  5 years ago

  Thanks Tussuck, 

  found a mate with the kit, problem is to timesert the trans housing (that the trans door screws to) the timesert needs a flange cut to seat the insert, therefore I’ll have to remove the trans side door and all that comes with it which means primary off etc etc etc. Definitely the best way to go but much work. I can helicoil through the door bolt hole but I’ve decided against it.

  I’ll go with the 5/16 high tensile threaded rod, looks like I’ll get 12mm of thread depth which is more than stock and make up a thin nut/washer combo to sit under the exhaust mount. I’ll take the timesert path if it fails to tourque up. Cheers.

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  tussuck

  5 years ago

  No probs, I would be doing the same if that was the case.  (I'm an old Evo and the trapdoor just unbolts from the Tranny case)

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  markwoumla

  5 years ago

  Ratbob,,, Looks like you have a good handle on what you want to achieve, with what you have to work with, other than major disassembly of parts to install a time-sert  etc  …..

  Let us know how it pans out ….  Cheers ...

  
  
  

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  Ratbob

  5 years ago

  Cheers guys, thanks for the advice, I’ll update the outcome. 

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  Ratbob

  5 years ago

  Interesting concept Rodders. Made my day as I thought I was a nutter.

  Might follow that principle across the whole bike, drop the weight a bit. Cheers.

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  beaglebasher

  5 years ago

  Give yourself an uppercut Rodders!

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  Ratbob

  5 years ago

  All good, mate with the kit came in,  cut thread deeper, used 5/16 high tensile bar, machined up a spacer where the old stud nut sat so now the whole exhaust mount is used as the washer, tourqed up perfect.

  Thanks for all the advice, especially the tip re timeserts as I wasn’t aware of them. Cheers guys.