This where you guys get this wrong it’s not the dyno that tunes the bike the dyno is just a rolling rd

Your absolutely right, the only thing is that there are no timing lights on late model HD any more the ECU is given a code to a new setting by the tuner. My power vision can do the same thing. The dyno provides/replicates real time loads that the tuner then compensates via the map reading timing, fuel , load, and throttle opening and makes a correction for. It is a black art.

are you using BP98 or caltex 98 , not shell , ?, bike needs a good dyno tune by the sound of it , or cam is to much cranking pressure down low for the comp ratio used, they should be able to pull some timing's out around this rev range if they know what there doing ?

Why not Shell's hi-octane offering?

Dan i think the glaring clue is in the last 6 words.  Is this a brand new install?

Hi no done about 5000ks on it I think I’m going to get it dynoed at ApL at Windsor  when money allows they want $1000 but people seem to rate them 

I wouldn't let that guy tune my lawnmower, but the fanboys will come flocking. I won't divulge a whole lot, but I'm rebuilding a guys sporty who got the APL "climate control dyno tune" that turned the pistons into molten paperweights.

This where you guys get this wrong it’s not the dyno that tunes the bike the dyno is just a rolling rd

Your absolutely right, the only thing is that there are no timing lights on late model HD any more the ECU is given a code to a new setting by the tuner. My power vision can do the same thing. The dyno provides/replicates real time loads that the tuner then compensates via the map reading timing, fuel , load, and throttle opening and makes a correction for. It is a black art.

I was referring to the dyno as a tool like a timing light  a dyno does not tune the car or bike 

how do we know those "guns" have tuned bike?

There is a LOT to be said for the Autotune function on whatever black box you use.  For me; getting to 99% of perfect is good enough as I would not be able to tell the difference that the 1% offers anyway. 

Just remember, Autotune uses narrowband 02 Sensors on a typical setup (excluding target tune)

It's when you get out of those cells into the higher load/rpm scale that your desired AFR tends to drift.

I'm a huge advocate of the PV and it's AT capabilities and use it a lot myself, but I've seen first hand the AFR curve go "into the red" so to speak once the sniffer goes up the pipe and the wrist is twisted.

For your typical stage 1 sunday cruiser bike, by all means a good base tune and some AT sessions should see you through.

Once you wind the wick up a little, in both modifications and/or riding style that's when an experienced operator/tuner will reap benefits. Not just performance, but Engine longevity.

OP has a stout list of mods done to his bike, just firing up the old SERT and flashing in the closest map doesn't cut it IMO.

Just remember, Autotune uses narrowband 02 Sensors on a typical setup (excluding target tune)

It's when you get out of those cells into the higher load/rpm scale that your desired AFR tends to drift.

I'm a huge advocate of the PV and it's AT capabilities and use it a lot myself, but I've seen first hand the AFR curve go "into the red" so to speak once the sniffer goes up the pipe and the wrist is twisted.

For your typical stage 1 sunday cruiser bike, by all means a good base tune and some AT sessions should see you through.

Once you wind the wick up a little, in both modifications and/or riding style that's when an experienced operator/tuner will reap benefits. Not just performance, but Engine longevity.

OP has a stout list of mods done to his bike, just firing up the old SERT and flashing in the closest map doesn't cut it IMO.

Just remember, Autotune uses narrowband 02 Sensors on a typical setup (excluding target tune)

It's when you get out of those cells into the higher load/rpm scale that your desired AFR tends to drift.

I'm a huge advocate of the PV and it's AT capabilities and use it a lot myself, but I've seen first hand the AFR curve go "into the red" so to speak once the sniffer goes up the pipe and the wrist is twisted.

For your typical stage 1 sunday cruiser bike, by all means a good base tune and some AT sessions should see you through.

Once you wind the wick up a little, in both modifications and/or riding style that's when an experienced operator/tuner will reap benefits. Not just performance, but Engine longevity.

OP has a stout list of mods done to his bike, just firing up the old SERT and flashing in the closest map doesn't cut it IMO.

Umm. No. Thundermax Autotune (my unit) uses standard Bosh Wideband O2 sensors so you get the full advantage of being able to do a true AF tune.  I'm Stage 1 and use a vendor supplied canned base map for my setup which I downloaded.  If I go Stage 2/3 etc then I just download a new base map that suits my setup and use Autotune to again get things to 99% spot on.

Its not a dark art or anything, but my experience is with a specific brand unit that I purchased because it had the features I needed (ie Autotune and support for Turbo's)

Did you get your bike tuned by the one good tuna in Queensland?

hey FC , I should have said if you have an EFI bike and you want it to feel beautiful to ride. these guys know there stuff & have good set up's that cost's them a lot of money , not just to buy but also to keep in top condition & if your getting a full custom map it take a lot of time, so you need a sound proof room that also has good air intake and air vent to keep air quality safe, should also have air quality warning as, if not eventually will kill the operator!!