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  tussuck

  4 years ago

  Quoting Grease Monkey on 07 Jun 2019 11:53 PM

  No mikuni guru but you can still get kits for them, given all the issues you have found and conquered so far I'd be inclined to strip it, sounds like the petcock is suss as well, while your at it :)

  On your base gaskets, it will cost a bit to get a shop to do it properly, you seem pretty competent, don't fancy doing it yourself?

  Quoting Smokey61 on 09 Jun 2019 04:55 AM

  Agreed on the base gasket. Easy job. 

  +1 there.  I have done this twice in a home shed.  

  Depending upon the bikes mileage I would consider taking the jugs somewhere to get them re-honed and then drop in a new set of rings.  Its one of the few times you will have the engine apart like this so do some routine/preventitive maintenance at the same time.

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  95FXDWG

  4 years ago

  Anyone got a trick for removing the rear cylinder with taking the engine out? Its just like janga in the frame

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  Grease Monkey

  4 years ago

  If you have the head off lift the jug up as far as possible and block it in place, wind the engine over until the gudgeon is clear of the bottom, pop it out and wind the rod down as far as it will go, push the piston back up into the bore a bit if you need more room, that's what I have done if clearance is tight on customs, don't know if that will help you or not.

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  tussuck

  4 years ago

  Quoting 95FXDWG on 18 Jun 2019 11:20 PM

  Anyone got a trick for removing the rear cylinder with taking the engine out? Its just like janga in the frame

  Easy as.....   Put a jack under the engine and raise it so its just touching the bottom.  Then basically remove all the front engine mount bits which will result in the engine now resting on the jack.  Simply lower the jack, the engine will lean fwd and you have easy access to the rear jug.  (can be done with the bike upright or on the side stand, but upright works best.)

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  perthhog

  4 years ago

  What they said  just stuff the case with some clean rag around the rod not to much 

  In case you drop the  Gudgen pin c clip  and any old gasket when you’re 

  Clean up the case 

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  95FXDWG

  4 years ago

  Hey fellas going well so far just need to know what size these are?
  
  

  

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  Grease Monkey

  4 years ago

  Head bolt? Think it's 1/2"
  

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  95FXDWG

  4 years ago

  So another update pulled the rear cylinder of to do a top end rebuild. And any reason why the middle gasket would be tripled? And the base gasket was non existent, just a big silicone mess in there. Also to get the room for a standard Allen to fix I used a ratchet strap to move the engine around 3cms to get in. Super easy and worked great! 
  

  
  
  

  

  

  

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  Grease Monkey

  4 years ago

  That's just a stock Harley headgasket man, they usually pull apart when you take the heads off.

  Good idea on the strap, thinking outside the box 

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  tussuck

  4 years ago

  Yep... normal head gasket.  Base gaskets are always paper thin (invest in GOOD gaskets like James or Cometic  (and MLS only which if i recall is the bees knees for heads)

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  95FXDWG

  4 years ago

  Got a James top end rebuild kit waiting at the post office, just curious about getting the piston back onto the barrel. Do I need to get a piston ring compressor? Or is there a sneaky way around it?

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  tussuck

  4 years ago

  The rings are a chit to do without a compressor but can be done if your gentle.  One approach is to mount the piston into the jugs BEFORE you then slide the jugs beck into the bike.  You then do the gudgeon pin etc before you slide the jug into final place.  (WARNING - its bloody easy to drop the c-clip into the cases here...lol)

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  95FXDWG

  4 years ago

  I've been reading the service manual flat out and just said stuff it and grabbed one from super cheap. The new gaskets look great! Now just need to clean all the silicone mess up as good as I can after work and hopefully get enough time to start putting it back together! Its about now i had a full length video tutorial haha
  
  

  

  

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  tussuck

  4 years ago

  One thing.  With the jugs out, check both mating surfaces between the jugs and the cases for levelness etc.  I found casting rises and 'unsmooth' bits on the cases that i actually filed smooth (And thats okay to do so long as your using the right file and being careful).  Every little bit helps when it comes to sealing.   

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  Grease Monkey

  4 years ago

  Progress, agree with all the above, just asking here, new rings an a light hone or as she was?

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  tussuck

  4 years ago

  Quote source removed.

  Bugger.  Did you make sure the base gaskets were on correct and not covering the oil return hole?  

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  Smokey61

  4 years ago

  Quoting tussuck on 26 Jun 2019 11:38 PM

  Bugger.  Did you make sure the base gaskets were on correct and not covering the oil return hole?  

  Did you check the pushrods aren't mixed up? They're different lengths. I fucked it up the first time I did it. Bike started but ran like a three legged goat.

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  perthhog

  4 years ago

  What Smokey said in regards to push rods  there colour coded for each valve and 

   don’t stress yet with the leak and till it’s been run a few times / cycles 

  As I found with James base gasket that the orange sealing  seal  part needs a few 

  Cycles before it seal right   As long as all the faces where clean and wiped down 

  With thinners or something alike to remove any oil  

  
  

  Edit 

  Pop the push rod covers off and see which colour is in which spot before you pull the rocker covers off

  You may have them right all ready.

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  Grease Monkey

  4 years ago

  So how did you go?

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  tussuck

  4 years ago

  And just buy adjustable pushrods.  They will save you money when you put in the hot cam etc.