Standard 96 with SE air filter and Rinehart 2 into 1, better figures than I was expecting.

One for forward gear and the other for reverse.

It's just begging for a wee cam, depending on preference, Andrews 48 or CR 570-2, 48 will raise what you have, the CR will push it right, lots of others out there but those two do work well, nice result for what it is though, bet it feels different to when you took it in :)

Thanks mate yeah she is definitely smoother now. I had thought about a cam but just dont have the funds atm. She has nearly 45000k's so if I was going to do cams I would like to do 107 or 110 barrels as well, maybe in a year or so.

You can feel, from the moment you leave a Dyno. When they have been tuned right, I would not worry about the HP, you have strong TQ & that is what you can feel!! That is perfect for a strong running street bike. Also need to note the latest & probably more accurate software tell’s the truth.just like the long black dyno (drag strip). Enjoy it.

Cheers mate and yeah she feels pretty good for now.

Not to hijack your thread Steve nor preach to the converted but for anyone reading this thread wondering if they could benefit by getting a tune, there is always an improvement and no downside when the fueling and ignition tables are calibrated to suit any bike to allow for variations due to production tolerances or intake/engine/exhaust modifications, even makes them sound better. The calibration that is in your stock bike is in all of that model, it's just a flash, lots of room for improvement, peak numbers most likely won't change a lot but the engine will respond so much better when the curves are sorted out, smoother, crisper with great fuel economy, win win win.

do you have a before dyno tuning run sheet?

It's a WOT run robots, top gear, wide open throttle, looks good to me, line is pretty steady, as it should be, stockers are usually awefull in that department, be nice if there was a before sheet to compare though.

I'll ask the shop if they have one

thanks