Gday lads n ladies

There's a guy on Facebook marketplace called Luke Musolino. Good dude to deal with, he has a few engines. Good prices.

Good chance rods wld b shagged then … So wld really only b cases and crank mainly?

To be safe take the price as being just for the cases, factor in a crank, darkhorse, S&S, something along those lines, you can get cranks rebuilt in Oz, not sure who does it, Lushy or Hoody might know, stock twin cam cranks can shift, even more likely if you bomb the engine.

Just a few years back, maybe 10 years, Perth was flush with "new bike take off" motors when the 120R craze was at it's peak.

Not taking the piss with this question, just don't have  much experience with post Evo motors. Well, a couple of mates bought early twin cams, one had premature cam chain tensioner excess wear and fitted an S&S gear drive conversion, the other bloke made a pre-emptive strike and bought the gear drive, but found his motor had too much pinion shaft run-out to fit it, and went back to a bored and stroked Evo shortly after.

My brand new in 2012, Twin cam 103 Street Glide has now got 77k on the motor. Its been thru two compensators and showing classic signs of third coming up, changed chain adjusters every time as a precaution but all showed wear. The std lifters were changed out when the first cam swap happened and they looked ok, and the gearbox broke a internal spring. It used oil from day one. Like your mate i was unable to fit Gear drive for the same reasons. Seems like the quality control for twinkies was all over the show with some motors being pretty good with tolerances and other built on someone's last day at the factory. Give me my old Evo motor anyday. 

Speedzter pretty much covered it Steve, a looked after twin cam can go as long as any engine, all the usual variables apply, I would buy and run a second hand engine without a qualm but to build a high output engine spending lots of dollars you start at the bottom end, I'm not saying every used engine is only worth the cost of the cases I'm saying you need to be prepared dollar wise for that scenario as you might not get a good one.

And you can't true the crank with a hammer either lol

Now you tell me!....lol

OK, looks like I misinterpreted rock38's original post, I took buying an an engine for a build to mean he was putting a bike together, not necessarily hot rodding the motor. Thought that first crept in with Hilly's comment about cranks more likely twisting if you bombed the donk, but what really spun me was the suggestion that the rods would be stuffed at that mileage. To me, rods are something to check if they're true, get crack tested if they're alloy, maybe get them shot peened, not a routine replacement part. (Think I've still got the Norton rod that came out through the cases, will have to look in the shed).

It's generally the crank pin that starts to fail, and the big end will go out in sympathy.

Looks easy watchn that vid…when ya hav the rite tools it is tho huh !

New bearings and hammer's!