Who's online: berserker, Wideglider, Krash Kinkade, walka, fatbat, micathia, Guests: 433
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  • Ken in Cairns Posts: 343
    Cairns FNQ
    Stage 1 Poster Ken in Cairns
    10 May 2019 11:22 PM
    If it is a grade 8 or high tensile bolt use Cobalt coated drills, it will make drilling em out a lot easier, they are not that expensive.
    I hate the screw in style easy outs, you are better off using splined ones thay dont expand the fastener as much. 
    A good set isn't cheap, but I think you can buy them individually. I have not used the square ones Grease Monkey has mentioned.
    Just make sure you drill in the centre of the bolt:)
    If it has locktite a lttle bit of heat may help.
    You can use a soldering iron if it is sufficient wattage to supply the heat,  stick it in the drilled hole till the desired temp is reached, will not damage any paint work that way.
  • tussuck Posts: 1822
    Melbourne
    Motor Head tussuck
    11 May 2019 11:17 PM
    Progress update:
    Fuck ... Fuckitty fuck; fuck fuck it all!
  • Grease Monkey Posts: 513
    Performance Poster Grease Monkey
    12 May 2019 07:01 AM
    Arr yes, copy on the fuck fuckitty, what seems to be the cause of the fuck fuckitty? Where you at?
  • Timmy Posts: 61
    Stock Poster Timmy
    12 May 2019 09:26 PM
    Gee, a 3/8” bolt shouldn’t snap under the weight of someone’s foot, even if they were grade 4.6 bolts.

    I think they must of been from a bad batch of bolts.  I’ve had that before.  All 1000 M12 galvanised  bolts just snapped when tightening.  Admittedly I didn’t go through every bolt,  but they were all shearing off.  
  • John.R Posts: 408
    Stage 1 Poster John.R
    12 May 2019 09:38 PM
    Since getting a TIG, its been my go-to for removing every snapped, sheered and seized bolt.

    From tiny snapped bolts in handcontrol housing, seized bolts that snapped 5mm inside (recessed) that could never be drilled due to angles, to bigger stuff as well (which are wayyyy easier)

    If you've got a mate with a TIG, give em a yell.

    Here is one of my biggest triumphs haha, had to do it to both sides, saved me buying a swingarm.

    https://imgur.com/gallery/mopAd
  • tussuck Posts: 1822
    Melbourne
    Motor Head tussuck
    12 May 2019 10:03 PM
    Well I got an Easyout with lefthanded bits and managed to break the drill in the bottom of the first hole.  Got the bit out but the easyout is not denting things at all in the first hole.  Have not started on the second yet other than a light pilot hole but am inclined to take the bike to the Thread Doctor in town and just have him do the job.

    I did ponder TIGing a bolt to the broken bit, but was worried that the heat would bugger the paint.  its still on the cards as a last resort though.
     
    HD Forums Australia - IMG_3532.JPG

  • Grease Monkey Posts: 513
    Performance Poster Grease Monkey
    12 May 2019 10:34 PM
    Bud you got to try and keep the hole in the middle, drill right through the bolt, take the hole out to about 3/16, get a punch on it and belt it with a hammer, I would soak it in penetrant of whatever flavour you have and give it a try with the easyout, if it don't come try the heat from a powerful soldering iron and more penetrant, bit more tapping with the hammer and punch thrown in, failing that weld a bolt on but be warned, once you weld the bolt will get get harder and be way harder to drill if you have to end up trying to drill most of it out to re-tap the hole.
  • tussuck Posts: 1822
    Melbourne
    Motor Head tussuck
    12 May 2019 11:00 PM
    Cheers,
    The pic is deceptive but the bottom one I'm working on has the hole pretty much dead centre.  Bloody drill broke before I even got all the way through.
    I'll check out the Thread Doc, but also get a new cobolt drill bit tomorrow so I can keep at it.
    In the meantime I have put the mid footrest back on for the right side so that I at least have a rear brake for the weekly commute.  Feels a bit wonky riding with one mid and one fwd but it does the trick
  • Wideglider Posts: 574
    NSW
    Performance Poster Wideglider
    12 May 2019 11:00 PM
    True, if drilling isn't central then you're wasting your time. 
    Need to get the surface flat first (use a Dremel), then centre-punch before drilling. Use Penetrene as previously suggested.
  • wello Posts: 65
    Stock Poster wello
    13 May 2019 11:30 AM
    clearly those bolts are seized pretty tight so wasting money on a left hand drill bit wont really help , any old bit will do so long as can drill the steel , if it is a stainless bolt i would imagine the corrosion that happens between it and carbon steel  is not helping .. if its high tensile then both are a pain in arse to drill anyway ... but in my experience dont stress to much about being exactly in the middle just as long as u dont drift to one side and gore op the threads .. and if u do happen to get through with a bit make sure u make hole as big as u can so less chance of the easy out breaking or ur really fkd ... i been dealing with these for donkeys years and what i normally do is heat the remaining thread so its glowing red then let it cool .. that makes it shrink just enough to get it moving ... so if u know a plumber with an oxy set and a small braizing head that may be a last resort , ya can soon chuck a bit of black paint on afterwards : )
  • brucefxdl Posts: 1053
    south west victoria
    Performance Poster brucefxdl
    13 May 2019 12:37 PM
    Quoting wello on 13 May 2019 11:30 AM
    clearly those bolts are seized pretty tight so wasting money on a left hand drill bit wont really help , any old bit will do so long as can drill the steel , if it is a stainless bolt i would imagine the corrosion that happens between it and carbon steel  is not helping .. if its high tensile then both are a pain in arse to drill anyway ... but in my experience dont stress to much about being exactly in the middle just as long as u dont drift to one side and gore op the threads .. and if u do happen to get through with a bit make sure u make hole as big as u can so less chance of the easy out breaking or ur really fkd ... i been dealing with these for donkeys years and what i normally do is heat the remaining thread so its glowing red then let it cool .. that makes it shrink just enough to get it moving ... so if u know a plumber with an oxy set and a small braizing head that may be a last resort , ya can soon chuck a bit of black paint on afterwards : )
    agree wello,once a hole is all the way through it wont take much heat to get it cheery red,make sure you cover anything on the other side of the hole as the heat coming through will befocussed in to  a small area and will heat things pretty quick.if you can cool it quick [ quelch it ] with water it should move easy or just let it cool natural [ cold to touch] and give a hit with a punch and be on your way to finish your repair,no 2 broken bolts will ever be the same in ease/difficulty in removing.good luck and stay positive, you will win the end.
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